First Ascents in Rolwaling Valley, Nepal


In October 2012, Alan Rousseau, Matt Barela and I departed for an expedition to the Rolwaling region of Nepal. 

During our 45 days in country, we accomplished the first ascent of Langmoche Ri (6611m), climbed 1000 ft. of new terrain on Peak 5766, and established 5 multi-pitch waterfall ice routes in the Rolwaling and Yalung Valleys at grades up to WI5+ M6. 
We sent.

Special thanks to Helly Hansen for outfitting our trip.  My favorite item: the Odin Hooded Belay Jacket.  Check out my gear review.

Drop in for a short photo essay on our trip.





Our route up Peak 5766


Matt scoping ice routes en route to Na


Alan ice climbing in Yalung Valley


Alan approaching the Trakarding Glacier, Kang Nachugo Behind


Rock glacier on the approach to Langmoche Ri


Making way to high camp (5790m) on Langmoche Ri


Climbing the northwest ridge of Langmoche Ri


Climbing fluted snow, five pitches from the summit


Route overview on Langmoche Ri(6611m)


A write up of our trip, along with more photos, was published in the 2013 edition of the American Alpine Journal.  We also got a mention in the Piolet d'Or.