Layering for Mountain Travel
Much has been said and written about the importance of
clothing in outdoor pursuits. There is an
old Scandinavian saying that goes, “there is no such thing as bad weather, only
inappropriate clothing.” And while I
have been in some truly shit weather and don't quite agree with the statement,
I believe the sentiment rings true. Traveling
the world extensively over the years, both as a climber and a mountain guide, I
have seen how clothing selection can make or break a trip in remote,
inhospitable environs.
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| Action Suit, Hard Shell, and Puffy Layers |
Over the past six years, while having the opportunity to
work as a Helly Hansen ambassador, I have gotten to see what kind of weather
modern fabrics can endure and how they work together to keep us protected and
comfortable outdoors. I put my gear through the paces and I am happy
with where HH has taken their products. I am proud to be able to say that I have been
involved with the evolution of their product line. Just in the past year, I have been from 7000m,
to alpine climbing in the Cascades, to heli-ski guiding in Alaska. With only slight variations, I have found that
there is a clothing system that works to provide comfort and warmth
anywhere in the world from the highest mountains to your local peaks.
In choosing a clothing system, each layer should have a
specific purpose. Choosing to pile layer
upon layer of base layers will add minimal warmth while making you feel like
you are wrapped in elastic (because, essentially, you are) and cannot move. Instead think about how each layer will fit
with the others to achieve a feeling of mobility while still providing moisture
transport, warmth and weather protection.
Tops
Base Layer
The first layer in the system should be a long-sleeved base
layer. This piece should be long sleeved
and synthetic. This layer is not sexy or
flashy but it is an essential piece to move moisture and sweat away from your
skin to the outside. Cotton will soak out,
if not from weather than from sweat, never dry, and make you cold. Wool is great if you can handle it next to
skin, it holds off the stink longer than synthetic, but is not as efficient at
moving moisture and does not dry as quickly. There are infinite possibilities and weights
and numbers and designations surrounding base layers that marketing departments
use to make them sound sexy. Don't get
caught up in the hype. You can make
decisions for this layer based on two factors: 1. How cold is it going to be?
and 2. Will this layer be used alone in warm and/sunny environs? If it is going to be hot while traveling on
lower mountain glaciers in the sun choose a light fabric, light colored base
layer. If it is strictly going to be
worn under other layers because of cold temps it may be better to choose a slightly heavier fabric and a darker
color will be fine. On some trips it
makes sense to bring one light and one heavy.
But leave it at that and move up to the next layer.
Example: Lifa and Active Flow (pictured below)
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Trekking above Namche Bazaar
in route to the Rolwaling Valley, Nepali Himalaya.
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Second Layer
On colder trips and on higher peaks you will want a warm
layer to go over your base layer. Again,
you can choose heavier or lighter depending on predicted temperatures, but this
next layer should be distinctly different from you base layer. This one provides warmth. Choose something fleecy or hooded, something
not meant to be worn next to skin.
Depending on the destination, this piece can sometimes be left behind.
Example: Warm Flow Full Zip (pictured below), Vertex Stretch
Midlayer
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| Setting up camp on the Trakarding Glacier, Nepal. |
Soft Shell “action suit”
Much confusion still seems to surround this layer. This is not helped by many company’s advent
of the “soft hard-shell.” A soft shell
is a piece that is meant to provide some level of weather protection but still
be breathable. Therefore, you can
exercise hard in for example, a light snow storm or windy conditions, but the
snow sloughs off the fabric and the wind is mostly blocked. This layer has the added benefit of often
being stretchy and more comfortable to move in due to the “soft” nature of the
fabric (not crinkly and rigid like hard shell) – great for athletic pursuits. The key here is light protection – if
the soft shell is touted as waterproof (the so-called “soft hard-shell” or “waterproof
soft-shell”) be leery, remember the point is to have a breathable layer so you
don't get wet from sweat but also are afforded protection from the
elements. This layer works best in colder
conditions when precipitation is in the form of snow. Sometimes, in cold weather and with a good
forecast, this layer may take the place of a hard shell. On the other hand, in warmer weather, a soft
shell may be a heavy layer that does not provide rain protection or as much
warmth for weight as a fleece and can be left behind.
Example: Paramount series (pictured below)
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Climbing
to Camp 2 on 7134 meter Pik Lenin, Kyrgyzstan. Mountain Madness Expedition 2014.
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Wind Shell
A wind shell is basically a light piece of nylon stitched
into a jacket. It should be something
that can be squeezed into a ball the size of a fist. It provides the basic function of a soft
shell in a very lightweight package. It
is a great summer piece, to keep of a little mountain breeze during those early
summit mornings, or block a light drizzle, where wind would blow through or rain
soak a fleece or donning a hard shell would make you sweaty and wet from the
inside.
Example: Odin Minimalist (pictured below), VTR Helium Jacket
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On the First Ascent of the
West Face of Pachermo (6275m), Nepal.
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Hard Shell
This is the definitive weather protection piece. So-called hard shell because it is
traditionally made of a “hard,” crinkly sounding material. This is a water impermeable
jacket with a membrane. Though it looks
like a single piece of material a hardshell is usually 3 layers: a nylon outer
shell, a waterproof membrane, and a wicking liner all glued together.. Typically, the heavier a jacket fabric is usually
equals better protection, with heavier, thicker weave nylon and better wicking
lining (3 layer tricot vs 2.5 layer) to provide better weather protection and
better moisture transport. But always
opt for something that looks like one piece of fabric instead of with a hanging
liner inside. The hard shell layer is
one of those pieces that you really don't want to have to use, but carry it
along if the weather gets nasty. This is
a good reason to opt for a lighter jacket if it is simply going to live in the
bottom of the backpack. You will get
sweaty (no matter how breathable the claims of the fabric may be) if you are
putting out a high level of exertion while wearing a hard shell. This is why the soft shell was invented!
Example: Odin Mountain Jacket (pictured below), Odin light, Odin Minimalist
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| Loading the helicopter in AK. Flying into the mountains to ski at Points North. |
Puffy
A puffy jacket adds a lot of warmth in a light, compressible
package. It will add more warmth for its
weight than any other layer. I usually
like to have a puffy jacket fit over all the other layers in the system so that
I can quickly pull it on or off (especially at breaks) to stay warm. If it is a warmer environment where rain is
likely, it can make sense to fit it under a hard shell. I almost always prefer
to have a hood on my puffy layer because it makes a huge difference for sealing
in your body heat. A hood-less jacket
should be reserved to warmer weather and lower elevations. Choose the puffiness (or “loft” and therefore
warmth and weight) by how cold an environment you are traveling to and what the
predicted temperatures are. In very cold
environments I will take 2 puffies: one I can climb in and one for when it gets
really cold (summit days and nighttime).
Down parkas will be warmer for the weight but have the possibility of
getting wet (down does not insulate when wet and is not easy dried), while
synthetic jackets are not as warm for the weight or as compressible but are
easy dried and still provide warmth when wet.
A good strategy is to not put all your eggs in one basket e.g if your sleeping
bag is down bring a synthetic jacket or if you have a big down parka bring a
lighter synthetic to layer under. But it
really depends on the weather and temps expected.
Example: Icefall (pictured below), Odin Insulator, Verglas
Expedition
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Near 20,000 ft on Pik Lenin.
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Bottoms
The same principles hold true for layering on the legs with
only minor differences noted below:
Base Layer
A light long underwear can be added underneath soft shell pants
to add some warmth.
Example: Lifa (pictured below)
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| Interacting with the wildlife in the Rolwaling Valley. |
Second Layer
A heavier long underwear, or preferably something with a fleece
or waffle weave will be warmer for the weight. Again, layering too many tight
layers will inhibit movement. Often,
unless it is very cold, I will choose one or the other long underwear layer to
wear under soft shell pants.
Example: Daybreaker fleece pants
Soft Shell “action suit”
Stretchy, mobile, look for something with an internal gaiter
or a cuff that seals out snow so, typically, separate gaiters will not be
needed.
Example: Odin Guide pants (pictured below)
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| On the West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau (6943m), Nepal. |
Hard Shell
Wearing hard shells is not desirable unless the weather is
foul. However, hard shells do provide
insulation in the form of a vapor barrier and can even help keep your toes
warmer. Over-layering the legs will not
make or break the sweat machine in your core, but it can be uncomfortable when
it gets steamy... down there. Having
pants with full side zips will allow you to take off or put on the hard shell
pants over boots and crampons. If your
pants have full side zips you will not be stuck with the decision of wearing
them all day or having to take boots off to get them on when the weather gets
bad.
Example: Odin Mountain Pants (pictured below)
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Waiting for the helicopter to
pick us up for the next run in the Chugach Mountains.
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Puffy Pants
Full side zips for the reasons discussed above. Synthetic is best for puffy pants so that
when you slice them with your crampons the synthetic insulation stays in place
as it is a long continuous filament. When
down pants get sliced open the down spills out and continues to spill out until
the leak is patched.
Examples:
Warm Weather
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Summertime Alpine
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Cold Weather
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Upper Body
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Short sleeve base layer
Hoody
Wind shirt
Puffy
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Base layer
(second layer dependent temps)
Soft shell
Hard shell
Puffy
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Long sleeve base layer
Fleece
Soft shell
Hard shell
Light puffy
Parka puffy
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Lower Body
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Light soft shell pants
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Soft shell pants
Hard shell pants
or
Long underwear
Soft shell pants
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Long underwear
Fleece long underwear
Soft shell pants
Hard shell pants
Puffy pants
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