Alpine Ninja

6938m Tengi Ragi Tau Alan and I have received news we have been chosen as one of the teams awarded the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Climbing Award for 2014.  It is an honor.  Read more... Approaching Tengi Ragi Tau and Langmoche Ri in 2012

In 2013 Ryan Murray and I returned to Alaska, driving over 2000 miles with snow machines in tow.  The drive did not go smoothly - at one point the wheels literally flew off the trailer (well, one wheel anyway). Though we had paid the price of entrance in vehicle karma, this Alaska season was not coming together.  Each storm cycle would blanket the mountains in beautiful powder and, immediately following, outflow wind would blow it all away.  Regardless, we managed to explore the Chugach further than I had ever seen in a helicopter, via snowmobile.  Along the way we climbed and skied the Tusk (our second of the Chugach Big 5 ) and a potential first descent on a tall peak at the head of the Woodworth Glacier.

In October 2012, Alan Rousseau , Matt Barela and I departed for an expedition to the Rolwaling region of Nepal.  During our 45 days in country, we accomplished the first ascent of Langmoche Ri (6611m), climbed 1000 ft. of new terrain on Peak 5766, and established 5 multi-pitch waterfall ice routes in the Rolwaling and Yalung Valleys at grades up to WI5+ M6.  We sent. Special thanks to Helly Hansen for outfitting our trip.  My favorite item: the Odin Hooded Belay Jacket .  Check out my gear review . Drop in for a short photo essay on our trip.

In April 2012, Ryan Murray , "Alaska Pete" Lowney and myself were the first to climb and ski the highly sought Pontoon Peak.   After warming up in a zone know as "The Books," which contains more ramps than a grandmother's retirement home, Ryan and I met Pete on a glacier during the snow machine ride into the Deserted Glacier.   Pete offered his local knowledge to lead us through the labyrinth of glaciers to Alaskan ecstasy. After a 35-mile sled ride, from which not all of the sleds would return unscathed, we set up camp below Pontoon.   A climb that we thought would take 8 hours, 10 if we were going really slow, dragged on to 12 hours of swimming and fighting up though 70 degree snow. What followed was the best ski descent of my life.   Take a look...

During the summer of 2012, before heading to Nepal, Alan Rousseau and I got together for a little training mission.  We had decided that before going to attempt new routes in another country, at high altitudes, on the biggest mountains on earth, we should try some new routing closer to home.  Many people, myself included, have a sense that the Cascades are largely climbed out.  However, on this day I discovered the truth is quite the opposite. Half Moon Spire from the Washington Pass Hairpin.  Number 1 marks our route.